Review: Peter Luger Steak House

I’m a big meat eater. I’ve made no claims to the contrary. In my family, when we need to celebrate something major we end up at one of two types of restaurant, an Italian place, or a steakhouse.
My anniversary falls into that “major celebration” category and for the past four years, we’ve been making a habit out of visiting expensive, fancy steakhouses. We started out at a Ruth’s Chris, next we tried Morton’s and last year we visited the Old Homestead at the Borgata. The Old Homestead is a second (or third) location for one of the oldest steakhouses in New York City and while doing some research on the Old Homestead I came across another very old steakhouse in NYC—Peter Luger’s.
I had decided that I would at some point have to try each of these restaurants as they both have been open since the late 1800s and they have both been written up as the “best” steakhouse in New York City. This anniversary, our great steakhouse tradition continued when I was surprised with a lovely weekend in New York City complete with a reservation to Peter Luger’s.
The reservation was made more than three months in advance and were still only able to get the last seating of the night, 10:45PM. This of course meant that I had a chance to eat three complete meals during the day topped off with a HUGE steak dinner when I should be getting ready for bed. A tough task to be sure, but one I was happy to undertake on behalf of you our dear reader (ha ha ha!). We were staying in the Lennox Hill area of Manhattan not far from Grand Central Station, which is quite a ways away from Peter Luger’s original location in Brooklyn. Of course, my incessant worrying about being late meant we left more than an hour before the reservation, but it was a long trip that included crossing the Williamsburg Bridge into what turned out to be not such a great neighborhood.
Walking up the street toward Peter Luger’s we immediately noticed a large billboard painted on the side of building advertising the restaurant. The building stands out among the others in the neighborhood and makes one wonder what the area looked like in 1887 when the restaurant first opened. We walked into the restaurant and gave our name to a very unfriendly maitre d’ and were told to wait near the bar. As I looked around the beirgarten decor was inauthentic and not at all what I expected from a restaurant in this price range. Speaking of the price range, Peter’s Luger accepts cash only unless you happen to have a “Peter Luger Credit Card.” I spent most of the wait worrying about whether the $400 in my pocket was going to cover the bill or not. I tried to take a photo of the very plain bar when I was told by the bartender and the maitre d’ that NO PHOTOS were allowed. I’m not sure if they were joking but putting all of this together with the ZAGAT review (which clearly and repeatedly over the years mentioned the rude and aggressive waitstaff) made me put my camera phone back in my pocket in a hurry. We waited nervously in the bar area not knowing what to expect but being pretty worried that not only did not I have enough money in my pocket, but also that I was going to have to tell off a waiter or two.

The very gruff maitre d’ called us back to our table and sat us in the far corner of one of the dining rooms and our waiter came right over. He immediately asked us if it was our first time at Peter Luger’s, to which we answered “Yes” and the whole experience became a lot more relaxed. The menu was also seriously surprising. It was not very big at all. In fact your choices of steaks were really limited. There was the steak for two, the steak for three, the steak for four and the single steak. They also had a rib steak and some lamb chops, but that was pretty much it. Now the “steak” at Peter Lugers is a dry-aged (onsite) poterhouse steak. The size is the only thing that changes. There were also some appetizers, veggies and desserts.

The waiter suggested “the usual,” which was the steak for two, creamed spinach and the Luger’s Special German Fried Potatoes. We ordered drinks, perused the menu and dove into the bread basket. There was a selection of breads but the one that caught my eye was a roll with salt and rye seeds on top. It was amazing. For dinner we decided to start with a slice each of the Luger’s Extra Thick Bacon, followed by the Steak for Two, some broccoli and some french fried potatoes. We gave the waiter our order and sat back to take in the atmosphere.
Now, Peter Luger’s is not the normal upscale steak house that I’ve become accustomed to. It was a very laid back place that really felt more like something out of the Sopranos. There were lots of drunk patrons, lots of loud patrons and several rude waiters floating around arguing with said patrons. Ordinarily, this would have really irked me, but for some reason it was all just part of the place’s charm. Seriously. We listened to the man behind us in a mixture of English and Italian tell his daughter off, we watched as four buddies got drunker and drunker and bragged about their recent “conquests” and we listened to a happy couple talk about it being their anniversary also.
But enough about the place… on to the food. The bacon came up first as an appetizer. Everything I read and all the shows I saw about Peter Luger’s mentioned their bacon appetizer. It was not so much “bacon” as it was a narrow ham slice, super thick, sizzling and truly delicious.

As soon as I took the last bite the waiter showed up with our steak and sides. However, I don’t think they were “our” steak and sides because while the waiter brought us the steak for two… he also brought us creamed spinach and the Luger Special potatoes, neither of which we ordered. I mentioned to him that I ordered broccoli to which he replied “eh…you’re gonna like this better” and began to serve us. The steak was huge. It came out on a big oval plate and was pre-sliced. The waiter set the plate down and propped one end up on the backside of a saucer so that all of the juices ran down to one end of the plate. He then used two spoons to create makeshift tongs, served us each the steak, spooned a generous amount of juice over it and told us to enjoy our meal. He came back a few moments later and apologized that while he did put in for the sides we ordered, he picked up “the usual” sides instead. He offered to also bring over the sides we ordered for free, but we turned him down because we did in fact like the usual sides more, as he suggested.

The steak was very good. Being dry aged, it had a very distinct flavor and was cooked exactly as ordered. The fact it was prepared and served so simply was exquisite. The sides were also very good. I really enjoyed the Luger Special Potatoes, which were very close to hash browns, but seasoned very well and quite tasty. I have to also say that the steak for two really was a steak for two. It was just the right amount of food for us. We were neither stuffed nor hungry.

I really didn’t need dessert, but that didn’t stop us from ordering a slice of cheesecake which was accompanied by an obscene amount of fresh whipped cream. The cheesecake was New York style (naturally), very creamy and just what the doctor ordered. As much as I enjoyed the cheesecake, I loved the whipped cream more… it was out of this world.

So. the question before me is “Did Peter Luger live up to the hype?” I would say yes and no. Was the food great? You better believe it was. Some of the best I’ve ever had. Was it the best steakhouse I’ve ever eaten in? Not really, no. Was the waitstaff rude? Some of the staff were rude, but some, like our waiter weren’t. Was it expensive? Peter Luger’s was nowhere near the most expensive steakhouse in which I have eaten. I actually think it was pretty reasonable for what you got. The one last thing I want to note about Peter Luger’s was the efficiency of it all. I know they have many, many patrons every night and in order to make sure they can seat them all, they have to keep things moving. Having a small menu helps, but our whole dining experience took about 30 minutes from drinks to check. We never really waited for anything and it was just amazing. Definitely worth a visit, not just for the “atmosphere” and history, but for a good steak and the experience of it all. 4 pans.
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Peter Luger Steakhouse
178 Broadway
Brooklyn, N.Y. 11211
718-387-7400
http://www.peterluger.com































