Review – Varasano’s Pizzeria

Hey Gang,
Returning with another review of a local restaurant here in Atlanta.
This time I went to Varasano’s Pizzeria, located in Midtown Atlanta, about a mile north of the High Museum. I had a Groupon that expired on the 29th and didn’t want it to go to waste, so headed there for a late dinner on Monday Night.

source: http://www.varasanos.com

This pizzeria has recently won some national acclaim, making into the top eight of Rachael Ray’s Search for the Best Pizza in America. The owner Jeff Varasano has done his research and has happily posted it online for the world to see. Part manifesto parts reading as though from a master’s thesis, he discusses the intricacy of the crust, which is the whole part of Varasano’s Pizza Philosophy.
Located in Midtown, I found the restaurant easy enough, parked and entered on the street level. Nice entrance, open to the bar. Seeing the “Please seat yourself” sign, I choose a seat near enough to the kitchen and open oven/pizza prep area to keep an eye open on things but not at the bar, as those are not my favorite places to sit. The waitress seemed nice, service was a tiny bit strained as she seemed to be working the section alone, but all in all, was ok.
After ordering a soda and presented with the menu, I sat to work deciding what to order. Three things jumped out at me: the spinach salad, the Saluni pizza, and the Espresso Panna Cotta. So i place an order for the salad and the Pizza, deciding that the Panna Cotta could wait until later.
The salad came quickly. (sorry no picture) It had a nicely flavored dressing, sweet but not overbearing. Gorgonzola dotted the corners of the plate, which played nicely with the spinach and the pecans that also dotted the salad. A small salad, it served as satisfying appetizer.

When I go to a restaurant with an open kitchen like Varasano’s, I tend to sit nearby. I like to watch the movement of the staff, the ballet that is played out each night. Tonight, there were 3 in the pizza oven area, the part that was open, just behind a nice bar with stools for those who like to be on top. Two of the guys were all making the pizzas and a third was dressing them and the salads with the final shavings of cheese and garnish. (She left early and so did one of the guys, leaving the third to finish up the pies) What I found cool is that there were what appeared to be stacks of Gladware containers behind the cooks, each with a pie’s worth of dough. Out would come the dough, a little flour and stretching and tossing would begin.
As I was surveying my copy of Saveur, I looked up and thought I saw the owner himself. He was working the area in a separated air, aware both of his troops and with his guests as well. I nodded my hellos and he then proceeded to bring over a slice of pizza, explaining that they had an extra pie and offered me a sample of there house speciality, The Nana. After thanking him and introducing myself, I settled into my slice. Following the instructions on the menu, I left my fork and knife aside and dove in with gusto. Very Nice. Good sauce and cheese. It whetted my appetite for my pizza. Then along came my Salumi.

This arrived shortly after, piping hot from the oven. Apparently, they cook their pizzas at about 873 degrees, so it was like molten at first bite, but knowing what I was going to get, I kept on going. And I was not let down by my perseverance. The thinly slice Italian meats, not sure what varieties, but tasted real pepperoni, Hot Sopressata, Capocollo, and others, were crisp and meaty. Blobs of mozzarella and bits of katamala olives rested atop a thin layer of sauce which hovered on their crust. I have never had crust like this before. (read his manifesto) Light, airy and not at all dry, it was sublime. I reluctantly left behind the crusts as there was a lot of pizza. I persevered, devouring the entire pizza, not in record time, but fast enough to savor the flavor. The surprise was the olives, passing over their brininess to the meats and crust while melding with the sauce just enough. The owner checked back in with me about half way through my pizza, and we chatted for a moment or two before I returned to my meal; I didn’t want to leave any behind.

And I didn’t. I used my fork to finish up the final bits of olive and meat that had slipped off the ends of the slices, and sent my plate back to kitchen well satisfied.

The waitress returned, asking about dessert or the check. I decided for the Panna Cotta, as I try to order as often as I can out. Brought in a martini glass, it had a nice layered effect. The top had a delicate hint of orange to the firm gelatin assisted with chocolate shavings, the middle a thin rich coffee gelatin, barely gelatinized and the bottom was a nice subtle chocolate layer, leading all in all to a delicious dessert that was not overpowering nor detracting from the flavor memory of the pizza.

I settled my bill, leaving a nice tip based on the total purchase price before the discount of the Groupon.
This is a place i will be coming to again, hopefully with friends, sitting where i was again to watch the pizza makers do their magic.

5 pans

Varasano’s Pizzeria
2171 Peachtree Road Northeast
Atlanta, GA 30309
(404) 352-8216
www.varasanos.com

Review: The Glenwood

There are small neighborhoods in Atlanta with their own special personality.  Most of these small neighborhoods nurture smaller businesses so major chains are virtually non-existent.  One of my friends lives in a very nice neighborhood in east Atlanta.  Interestingly, just outside the upscale neighborhood is an artist-friendly, local-driven, almost-Bohemian-esque neighborhood much like Little 5 Points.  For dinner, we decided to hit up one of the local restaurants, The Glenwood.

It’s actually a bar/restaurant.  You wouldn’t think you could get really great food from a bar but you can.  The restaurant part is actually separated from the bar but is part of the same establishment.  The Glenwood has a very homey feel and upscale look, a hard combo to create really.  The floors are a nice dark hardwood, the side wall is a rocky granite of some sort.  The atmosphere is warm and friendly.  I could see myself frequent the Glenwood on a weekly basis.  In fact, as we were dinner, I could overhear banter from the proprietor and patrons that seemed friendly and close as if the patrons have been dining there for years.  I wouldn’t be surprised if that were the case.  The staff was super friendly and the service was attentive.

The menu had some interesting offerings.  It was apparent that the Glenwood was an American bistro type place.  I wanted to try their Wild Boar Meatloaf featuring a wild mushroom gravy, bleu cheese mashed potatoes, and asparagus.  The meatloaf was moist.  It wasn’t gamey as I thought it would be.  Also, it seemed leaner than a regular beef meatloaf would be.  It was slightly salty, peppery with a savory scent of mushrooms much like the gravy it was topped with.  The gravy had a nice consistency, not too thick and not too thin.  Plus, there was a generous portion of wild mushroom.  The asparagus was the only slight disappointment; they seemed a little on the small side, but they were nicely sauteed and retained their nice crispness.

Normally, I don’t do dessert, but their homemade cheesecake beckoned and I had to heed the call.  I’m skeptical of most cheesecakes to be honest.  It seems difficult to get one that isn’t too light as if it were to fall apart and one that isn’t too dense as if you needed a jack hammer to penetrate the cake itself.  The Glenwood Blackberry Swirl Cheesecake was just right.  It had the perfect consistency and the perfect creaminess.  Granted, the blackberry flavor was feint but it’s hard to truly get a bright blackberry flavor in baked goods.  The crust was graham cracker but with a light dusting of cocoa which gave it a slight bitter chocolate flavor.  It was a perfect crust for a super creamy cheesecake.  It was one of the best cheesecakes I had ever had.  Period.  Bravo.

The Glenwood was a comfortable, neighborhood bistro place that serves some serious eats.  Also, their food is quite affordable; there are entrees that can be pricey but most dishes are around $10-12.  For the quality of fare, the prices are great.  Add a great atmosphere and friendly staff and you have a sure winner.  I left with a warm smile on my face on a cold night.  That’s a good enough recommendation I would think.

-jj

The Glenwood

http://www.glenwoodatlanta.com/

New to Dammit Let’s Eat—Mike R.

I would like to welcome Mike R. to Dammit Let’s Eat Family. He is probably the only one that actually work with food on the daily basis. He was a friend of my friend Mark in Atlanta, and he also knows JJ way back when. Atlanta is a wonderful city to explore—great restaurant to be had, and amazing neighborhoods like Virginia Highland and East Point. We at dammit Let’s Eat hope that all of our readers/listeners will enjoy his contribution as much as we do.

Drop him a line if you feel like it. Email

Mike R

I came to this blog through friends of friends and would love to make more friends through this.

I’m a self pronounced foodie working in the food industry, a love of the newest restaurant, a love of cooking, a love of food on tv and reality shows that come from there, a love of cooking gadgets, and a
sense of adventure when it comes to food. I love to seek out good food. And with my living in Atlanta, an up and coming food city, I have a great chance to stretch my legs.

My southern heritage will come out from time to time, especially in the recipes that I will post on here and the restaurants I will visit. I will attempt to foster a sense of cooking for one, sometimes
tailoring my recipes and communications toward that. I had a mother who was a true Southern cook; she had a possibly unhealthy love of butter and mild mistrust of crisp broccoli which did
not change until college (but funny enough, I still love butter). But I did develop my sweet tooth from her, and her love of fresh vegetables and a little of her love for offal.

I want my recently found love of food to show through here, with some hints to my past along with my love of Mexican food (gained from former roommates who told me to seek out authentic food) and British food (owing from my current employer and my travels) to show through sometimes.

Chick-Fil-A Dwarf House

On my last day in Atlanta, I found out that my flight home was delayed. Luckily, there were enough restaurants around for one last adventure.

I wonder where to go? My friend Kevin always has the answer. He yelled “Original Chick-Fil-A”. Yet another one of my personal favorites. Any other Chick-Fil-A would just be ok too, but the “Original” piqued my interest. Plus it is less than a mile from the Atlanta Airport. I gathered my thoughts and my belonging and headed to fill up my rental and then off to Chick-Fil-A.

The parking lot was almost full by the time we got there even though it was only 11 ish. The building was recently renovated and done very nicely with some of the old unique look still peeking through. It was originally opened in 1946 and was named the “Dwarf House” after Disney’s “Snow White and Seven Dwarfs”. The building even has a red door sized for small child and a mural of a Snow White scene with mechanical dwarfs walking in and out of the coal mine. Had they added the “Hi-ho” theme song from the movie, it would have been perfect.

Inside, the style of the original restaurant was preserved as well—it was separated into two major seating areas, the larger half was more of a diner style with counter style seating and the remainder was pretty much what you would have found in a fast food restaurant.

We sat in the diner area and looked over the menu. I was surprised that they offered much more than your typical “Chick-Fil-A” menu. They even had hamburgers and a few other salads and sandwiches.

Of course, I am a big fan of the plain Chick-Fil-A sandwich but without pickles. My friend Kevin ordered two grilled chicken sandwiches and we both had iced tea. I also added Carrotand Raisin Slaw which was tasty, I will post my own recipe replicating Chick-Fil-A’s Carrot and Raisin Slaw. My chicken sandwich was as awesome as I remembered. I am a big fan of the Chick-Fil-A sandwich, it is simply just a lightly battered chicken breast and buttered toasted burger bun with 3 slices of pickle. I usually tell them to hold that, since I think pickles don’t go with the chicken all that well… of course that is just my preference. Waffle fries are another unique item from Chick-Fil-A which I love as well. They also have awesome Lemonade—regular or diet.

I was happy with the meal but Kevin suggested a dessert, and who can say no to a made-in-house homemade peach pie with vanilla ice cream. I was a happy boy when I left for the airport.

We have only a few Chick-fil-a restaurants in the Boston area, but I always make sure to stop by and at least pick up some of their chicken nuggets for snack. In some of their locations, they also serve breakfast items such as a Chicken biscuit, and let me tell you…it is also very good.

If you have never been to Chick-Fil-A before, go and at least try out their chicken sandwich. You won’t be disappointed.

(404) 762-1746

Review: The Flying Biscuit

Atlanta has a rich tradition of fine eats from your expected Southern comfort food to even fancy steaks and fresh fish.  Honestly, Atlanta is mecca for foodies in the south.  No other state in the Bible belt really comes close. 

In my 14 years of living in Atlanta, I really didn’t explore much of the food scene unfortunately.  I figured that my trip back over the holidays would allow me a chance to do some much overdue culinary exploration. 

I decided to try a Atlanta favorite that I hadn’t had in years, the Flying Biscuit.  Although I don’t know the full history, I do know that FB has been a favorite for brunch for years.  FB has been expanding to become a local franchise; however, I decided to try the original FB stationed in historic East Atlanta.

Once you walk in, you get the immediate sense of being at home.  The decor is warm, full of wooden furnishings, comfy sitting, and the smell of breakfast wafting in the air.  We were seated at the back which had a lovely and colorful mural.  Our server was very casual and informal but very polite which was a nice combo. 

A quick look at the menu, and it’s evident the breakfast and brunch items take center stage.  However, if you want something more dinner-like, FB has you covered.  Also, you will notice that there aren’t any pork products.  No bacon, no sausage, nada.  Why?  Honestly, I don’t know.  Any readers who would like to enlighten us are welcomed to do so.  Instead of pork bacon and sausage, more healthy turkey versions are offered.

My brunch mates and I decided to try the fried green tomatoes as an appetizer.  Four small slices of green tomatoes are battered in seasoned flour, deep fried, and topped with a cashew-jalapeno relish and goat cheese.    

I wasn’t too thrilled.  The tomatoes were dry and the batter wasn’t crispy.  The flavor was flat which was odd since they advertised seasoned flour.  Worse yet, the goat cheese was stiff and not as creamy as it should be.  The flavors and textures were all over the place.  Although not terrible, the fried green tomatoes were disappointing. 

For my entree, I decided on the Piedmont Omelette featuring chicken sausage, turkey bacon, sauteed onions and cheddar cheese.  Accompanying my omelette was  “moon-dusted” potatoes (seasoned, potato hash) and dreamy grits (a house special, white grits that were very creamy).   The omelette was lacking.  Although the size was generous, the actual flavor was unidimensional.  It was a bit salty.  That was it.  The flavor of the cheddar didn’t come through, the sausage and bacon were background players, and the egg was tough and almost chewy not tender. 

The sides, sadly, fared better in the flavor department.  The potatoes were nicely fried and seasoned.  Herby and salty, they were a nice compliment to the bland omelette.  The grits were creamy, tangly, and slightly salty.  Honestly, I don’t like grits.  However, the server was adamant that I try them.  I thank her for the suggestion. 

The best part of the plate was FB’s namesake.  The biscuit was very tall and fluffy.  They were like puffy clouds of goodness that came with a creamy, sweet, fruity, cranberry-apple butter. 

Overall, the meal was mediocre.  I will say that my expectations were high due to FB’s preceding reputation.  However, after the meal, I really am pondering the origin of the hype.  The only standout was the biscuit which is sad to say.  Even the coffee was disappointing being overly acidic and bitter.  The Flying Biscuit does have its merits aside from the delicious biscuits.  The ambiance and friendly staff really help create a home-style meal experience.  If you want a casual brunch meal and love biscuits, the Flying Biscuit might be for you. 

The Flying Biscuit

various locations in Atlanta